Lush valley,cascading waterfalls and active volcanoes. Tribes with a history of cannibalism and apes so similar to humans their name translates as 'man of the forest'. The stuff of Hollywood adventure movies is all-too-real in North Sumatra, the most visited region of the island.
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The gateway to this exotic region, Medan is a bustling port town, replete with movie-style crowded market, seedy bars and shady characters, but also broad avenues, first-class hotels and restaurants - the fruits of Sumatra's broad-based economic development. From humble beginnings as a small kingdom on the Deli River delta, Medan became the capital of a powerful sultanate in the late 1800s, then developed into booming plantation town during the early 1900s as Sumatra's tobacco, rubber, palm oil and tea fetched high price on the world markets. Post independence Medan has continued to grow into Indonesia's largest city outside Java, with oil and industrial goods added to the list of lucrative exports.
Each successive era has left its mark on the city's architecture. The grandeur of Sultanate of Deli celebrate in the Maimoon Palace , an intriguing melange of Oriental Middle Eastern and Western architectural styles designed by an Italian in 1888. The classically Malay Grand Mosque stands opposite.
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Leaving frenetic, sprawling Medan and heading into highlands, the beauty of Northern Sumatra unrolls in endless vistas of lush plantation and charming villages, with majestic Bukit Barisan range providing the backdrop. A few hours from Medan, under the smoking volcanoes of Sibayak and Sinabung, lies the tranquil hill station of Brastagi. A favorite resort of Dutch, the cool climate and rich volcanic soil is ideal for growing European fruits and vegetables. Great mounds of oranges, passionfruit, avocados and other produce line the streets and fill the markets- delicious, healthful food on sale for risible sums.
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Gunung Lauser Reserve, which straddles the North Sumatra - Aceh Border, are open to visitor through rafting expeditions down the Alas River and tours of the orangutan rehabilitation center at Bahorok, where formerly captive apes are re-introduces to the wild.
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Lake Toba
The centerpiece of North Sumatra, Lake Toba's bracing climate and magnificent panoramas clear the mind and soothe the soul. For decades a magnet from regional and foreign visitors alike, Toba has developed into a full-featured highland resort while retaining the rustic charm and relaxed ambiance that define Toba's attraction.
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Formed by a stupendous prehistoric volcanic explosion, the 100 km long lake is the largest is Southeast Asia and one of the deepest and highest in the world. The drama of that cataclysmic birth persist in 500 meter cliffs dropping into the blue-green waters, Surrounded by steep, pine covered sloped, the climate is fresh and pleasant, with just enough rain to support the lush vegetation.
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Samosir, the large island in the center of the lake, is the home of the Toba batak, considered -at least by the Toba Batak - as the original Batak tribe. One of the prominent ethnic groups in the archipelago, Bataks living in distant cities will regularly return to their ancestral island. Even people not sharing the spiritual and historic connection with the island often return to Samosir, drawn by the enchanting natural beauty and fascinating culture.
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Three megalithic sites on Samosir bear witness to the glory - and horror - of Batak history. The three consist of 300-year-old stone seats and benches arrayed in a circle. The first set of ruins was used as a conference area for Batak kings. At the second site, the rajas would sit in judgment of a criminal or enemy prisoner. If the accused were found guilty, the assembly would move to the third set, which features the ghastly addition of a central stone execution block.
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Other, less gruesome attraction can occupy many days of exploration and discovery. All over the island are superb examples of traditional Batak houses, with elaborate carvings and decorations. Performance of life-size is Gale-gale wooden puppet are held frequently, and at any moment, the musical Batak might break into a impromptu song, the seeming effortless, multi-part harmonies belying the casual setting.
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Now, students and young professionals on tight budget have a good value accommodation, restaurants and general cosmopolitan atmosphere remain. With few motor vehicles, the island is a walker's paradise. Local guides are available for numerous hikes of varying difficulty around the island and surrounding lakeshore. Those who complete the 1600 meter climb up muddy trails to the village of Roonggurni need not be proud of their accomplishment:village children descend and re-climb the mountain every day to attend school.
Nias
Enormous breakers pummel the island of Nias attracting the best surfers in the world to Lagundri Beach. The unforgiving power attacking the shore seems to have bred the same qualities in the people, whose militaristic culture has fascinated anthropologists for decades.
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Getting to North Sumatra
Air
Medan is primary gateway to Sumatra, served by daily direct flights from Singapore by Garuda Indonesia and Silk Air, and from Penang by Malaysian Airlines System (MAS). Garuda Indonesia, Merpati Nusantara, Sempati Air, Bouraq and Mandala fly daily from Jakarta. A joint service by Garuda Indonesia and KLM flies weekly to Medan from Amsterdam.
Sea
Ferries ply between Penang and Port of Belawan. A fast, comfortable passenger liner sails biweekly from Jakarta to Medan.
When to Go
North Sumatra has a warm tropical climate with wet and dry seasons lasting approximately six month each. The heaviest rains occur in December and January. During the wet season, overland travel in Southern Sumatra ca be subject to lengthy delay. Average humidity is 81 percent and temperatures average 27C during the day and 25C at night, with average temperatures dropping one degree for every 300 meters elevation. Evenings in mountain areas can be quite cool. The best time to visit is between May and October, though rain will still be frequent occurrence in many mountainous areas. Monthly event list available in the Garuda Indonesia in-flight magazine or regional tourist information offices.
Getting There
Medan is served by daily flights from Singapore, Penang, Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta. There are good road connections from Banda Aceh and Lake Toba.
Accommodation
Medan is a modern city with full facilities for travelers of every budget and preference. Three four-star properties, and several three-star and two star hotels.
Transport
Medan has metered taxis and hire cars are available through most hotels. Noisy, motorized pedicabs cruise downtown area, offering a novel, if nerve-racking way of seeing the sights.
Lake Toba
Getting There
Lake Toba is three hours by good road from Medan. Bus service is frequent, and hired taxis are widely available. Regular ferries serve communities on Samosir, carrying motorcycles as well as passenger. Private speedboats are also available for charter.
Accommodation
Higher quality hotels are all found on the mainland at Prapat. On Samosir Island there are number of two-star hotels and plenty of basic, but clean and comfortable homestay.
Restaurants
The hotels all serve standard European food as well as local dishes. Restaurants on Samosir offer simple, healthy meals, often including yogurt, fruit juices and other young traveler fare.
Transport
Everything in Prapat is within walking distance of most hotels. Walking is one's only option in Samosir, as few vehicles exist.
Nias
Getting There
SMAC runs daily flights by small plane from Medan to Nias. Small ferries leave daily from Sibolga on the Sumatra west coast.
Accommodation
Nias has basic hotel geared to young surfers and backpackers.
Transport
Four wheel-drive vehicles and motorcycle are available in Nias. Hire cars and motorcycle are also available.
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